Saturday, 8 January 2011

Gili Islands

We resisted the temptation to spend double the money for a fast boat to the Gili Islands from Bali, and instead elected to spend the next 11 hours making our way there. Approximately 6 hours of this was spent travelling. Approximately 5 spent waiting around for our various links. It could have been worse, at least no-one was getting into fights in tour offices like at the volcano. Well, until we reached the port to take us on our last leg of the journey. We arrived, hot and tired from the ferry, to be dropped off at the company 'office'. Here, we were asked if we wanted to book a return journey with the same people. When we said no, we were told that it would be another 2 hours before we could catch a boat to the island. Strangely enough, 2 girls who decided to book the return we miraculously found a space on a boat leaving immediately... This was when we started to wonder if the guys in the office we genuine. When we tried to walk down to the port to check the boats, they got nasty. We finally left at the point when one of the other tourists waiting got threatened with a bottle. Once we made it onto a boat at last and were on our way to Gili Trawangan, we decided we would probably get the fast boat back when we left!
it was the Christmas/New Year period, and we had heard that prices were likely to soar, we needed to hunt carefully. So Kev and Nicio (a new friend we met on the boat) went looking, leaving me in a cafe with all the luggage. This may sound like the easy option, however it took them so long that I was actually shaking from the amount of caffeine I had got through. They did good work though, and we found somewhere for just 5 pounds a night for the whole 12 nights we were staying. As we watched them increase the prices over the next few days, peaking at an incredible 15 pounds, we realised just what a good deal we had. The next day we went for a walk around the whole island (it only takes about an hour). The area where we were staying is the busy side, with a few bars, shops and restaurants. The other side of the island is almost completely deserted, with only the occasional horse and cart to disturb the peace. There are no vehicles allowed on the islands. It really is stunning. Later that day, some more friends arrived (who we had met in the Philippines) and moved in to the same place. I guess nobody really wants a day by day account of 12 days on the beach, so I will condense it into some highlights.
Highlight number 1 - the snorkelling.
One of the real plus points of the island is the reef that surrounds it, meaning that great snorkeling is possible straight off the beach. The water was clear (most of the time), there were some fantastic fish to see, but the real stars of the show were the hawksbill turtles. Swimming with one of these beautiful (and huge!) creatures just doesn't lose it's appeal. Watching them eat is great, but watching them surface for air and swimming around and under them is just magical. Every day we were guaranteed to see at least one, and could easily spend an hour following them around. Amazing.
Highlight number 2 - Christmas day itself.
With 6 of us together for Christmas day itself, we decided 2 things. 1 - we should have a really nice 3 course meal, and 2 - we should have a 'Secret Santa'. After a day of snorkeling, sunbathing and rushing around trying to haggle down a good gift for no more than 2 pounds, we headed to our reserved table on the beach for our roast dinner. It was AMAZING, mostly as we;d all been living on noodles and rice for so long. In between courses, we opened the presents, most of which were pretty funny. The photos will follow. At the end of a very satisfying meal, we hit the bars for a few drinks. It was a great evening, and the perfect way to stop me getting too homesick. Santa even made his way to my room - he obviously took the fast boat.
Highlight number 3 - a trip to Gili Meno.
By this time, Oliver and Rhiannon had also joined us in the Gili's, so there was quite a group of us about. We decided to see one of the other islands in the group - Gili Meno, the smallest and quietest of the 3. Noone told us it was also the most mosquito infested place I've encountered in our 11 months of travel. Even Kev was getting bitten, and that's saying something. After an emergency stop for extra repellent, we found the place we had been looking for - a bird sanctuary which, according the Lonely Planet, also housed a Komodo Dragon and 2 kangaroos. Which were on holiday. Apparently. Still, they had a crocodile. As well as some really beautiful birds, including several parrots. It was a shame the man in charge liked using his stick quite as much as he did, I'm not sure the crocodile really appreciated it... After the bird sanctuary, we went for lunch and Rhiannon and I played the world's longest game of chess. It lasted so long that in the end we simply gave up and went for a swim instead. Conclusion - Gili Meno is very beautiful, but we were glad we were staying on Trawangan.
Highlight number 4 - New Year's Eve.
New Year's Eve was great. It began with a scuba diving trip with us, Andrew, Oliver and Rhiannon. The sea was pretty choppy and we had to abandon our original plan for a dive sight, but we found somewhere suitable and had a good dive. The best thing we saw was a bump head parrot fish, a massive, weird looking fish. Google it. The dive was a drift dive - my first - and I found it a strange experience being taken along with the current. After diving and a bit of snorkeling, we decided it was time for the first beers of the day, and went around the island to where it was a little quieter. After that, we took a walk through the centre of the island to a deserted area of beach, dragging bits of wood with us, to light a fire. A few of us also went for a moonlight swim (and wave surf - I still bear the scars). It was an impressive fire, and even more impressively we managed not to set the whole island alight. That evening, we went for another nice meal (mashed potatoes, first time in 11 months!) and then hit the Irish bar for some partying. It was packed, and the atmosphere was great. It started pouring with rain around 10pm, meaning that we spent most of the night soaked, but not really caring. 3 people lost their flip flops, Jono also lost his shirt (and most of his memory) and a good time was had by all.
So that was the Gilis. 12 days of relaxation and fun, and yes, we got the fast boat back to Bali.

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